Precious Metals for Wedding & Engagement Rings

Old European Cut Diamond

Many of my clients know they want white metal, and need to decide which white metal to use in their wedding rings. The options from my shop are:

Platinum
White Gold
Palladium

Among the many small and large differences between the metals, there are four which are most important to a majority of my customers: Price, Workability, Weight, Color. In that order.

Platinum is most expensive, by far. As of Jan, 2015, the pre-tax cost for the metal in a typical mens 5mm flat ring is as follows:

$600 - Platinum
$370 - White Gold
$290 - Palladium

The price difference can make a big difference - especially for large rings, which cost more.

The second is weight. Some people like the more substantial feel of platinum. Some people don’t. Palladium has the lowest density of the three metals, then white gold, with platinum ringing in the heaviest. The same ring above, in weight:

5.6g - Palladium
7.4g - 18k White Gold - 31% heavier
9.9g - Platinum - 75% heavier

Melting temperature is probably the second most important factor in the decision of which metal to use for wedding rings. The higher the heat, the brighter the metal gets when heating is involved. These are some (but not all) of the most beautiful and transformative moments during a ring-making session. Platinum is the brightest, Palladium next, then White Gold. The melting temperatures, rounded, in fahrenheit:

3250 - platinum
2450 - palladium
1900 - white gold

The flip side of the pyrotechnics involved in making a ring is sanding and polishing time. This is some of the less fun work involved. Platinum takes the longest, then palladium, then gold. If you want a matte finish, it cuts down on platinum finishing time by at least 30min.

The last important difference - which is minor - is color. Platinum and palladium have almost identical color on the cooler end of the white spectrum. The white gold that we use in my shop is slightly darker and a little warmer. It is only a difference you would see if holding the rings up next to each other.

There is one small disadvantage of palladium. The solder that we use to join the ring is ever so slightly darker than the metal in the rest of the ring. The result is a seam that is barely visible when looking at it in the right light. I recommend looking at a ring in person in the shop, because it is very slight.

So what is my preference? I like the weight of platinum, the color of white gold, the price of palladium. I prefer the photos during platinum and palladium workshops, but the versatility of gold when it comes to custom alloys.

You can’t go wrong whichever metal you choose. However, I hope this explanation will help you to weigh the pros and cons of each to come to a more confident decision.

As always, feel free to ask if you have any questions.

 

© 2019 Sam Abbay - New York Wedding Ring dba Sam Abbay